Bavarian Genes (Germany #15)

MUNICH--The Hofbräuhaus is arguably the most famous beer hall worldwide. Located in the city center, it also operates the second largest tent at Oktoberfest (first held in 1810), which for two weeks attracts millions. But we did not go there. Instead, our trip leaders who insisted that it was vastly overrated, took us instead to another major biergarten, the Paulaner, where lunch proved an amazing feast.

Huge platters arrived at our oblong table containing thinly sliced Knackwurst (veal and pork), roasted pork, smoked fish, white sausages, potato dumplings, potato salad, a variety of Bavarian cheeses, freshly baked pretzels, and other delightful morsels such as salads and thin sliced white radishes. For dessert there was apple strudel with vanilla sauce

And beer, of course. Munich is famous for its breweries. Weissbier (wheat beer) is a Bavarian speciality, though Helles and Pils are more popular. Dunkle, which gets its dark color from burnt malt, is another favorite. I liked them all, just as I enjoyed all the beers from every region. Bavarian genes, I guess.

After our magnificent lunch, the tour of the city continued. On Ludwigstrasse, one of four 19th century grand royal avenues connecting the inner city and suburbs, we saw state ministries and palaces in Italian renaissance style. To the north, the skyline featured clustered high-rises, including BMW headquarters next to the Olympic Park.

We visited the Alte Pinakothek, an important art gallery containing 14^th-18th century European masters. The exhibition rooms were large, airy, air-conditioned, and very quiet, with high ceilings, white crown molding, red brick walls, and natural wood floors inlaid with triangles and squares. Religion was the subject of most of the paintings, which tended to be very large, with elaborate gold frames.

Many were Puritan portraits. In a wedding picture by Titian, a man and woman are seated side-by-side, holding hands. An early Rembrant offers a dark image of Christ on a Cross. Durer and Rubens were featured artists.

After the Alte Pinakothek, we had free time to explore other museums on our own. This was followed by another enormous dinner at Lowenbraukellier, a restaurant and beer garden annex to the massive Löwenbräu Brewery, most of which was destroyed during a bombing raid in 1944 and then rebuilt.

During the meal, Experiment arranged for us to meet two charming young German ladies who’d been involved in the program. Both spoke flawless English. One, who was still in high school, had lived in Alabama for a year. The other now commuted to work in a design firm in another city. Once again, these Germans seemed so much like Americans and were full of good will.

After meeting them, it occurred to me that the best educational opportunity we could ever provide for American students would be to send them abroad to study for a year. I have no doubt they’d come back more enlightened. And if they ate as much as we did, fatter, as well.