NUREMBERG--When I think of this city, the trials of Nazi war criminals are what come to mind, of course, and I’ll have plenty to say about that. But after spending a couple of days here, I realize there is so much more worth knowing.
A little history: Nuremberg was founded around the turn of the 11th century as the location of the Imperial castle. It rose dramatically in importance during the medieval period due to its location on key trade routes. Often referred to as the “unofficial capital” of the Holy Roman Empire, it also was an early center of humanism, science (particularly astronomy), printing, and mechanical invention.
Perhaps most famously, the main part of Nicolaus Copernicus's work was published in Nuremberg in 1543. During the 15th and 16th centuries, Nuremberg’s cultural flowering made it the centre of the German Renaissance. In the 17th century, after the fall of Napoleon, trade and commerce revived and the city was once again prosperous.
During my two-day visit, I stayed in what is now known as the medieval quarter, just inside the old city walls, which are made of stone and stand several stories tall. My odd-angled, charming room at the Dürer Hotel was much like an artist’s garret, appropriate since it is named for, and located practically next door to, the preserved home and workplace of Albrecht Dürer, arguably Germany’s most famous artist.
Dürer, who is perhaps best known for his praying hands and rabbit works, was born in Nuremberg in 1471. He also lived here from 1509 until his death in 1528 in a five-story, half-timbered stone house near the Kaiserburg castle on a picturesque square. I went through the house, which is now a museum. Many rooms have been reconstructed and furnished with copies of Dürer’s pictures, as well as an artist’s studio from his time.
One oddity is an indoor privy that drained into the city’s sewer system, which was illegal. This posed a problem for local government: did they really want to impose legal penalties on their most prominent resident? The solution was to fine Dürer heavily--and then quietly give him a refund. You can’t beat City Hall, even back then.
Next stop, Kaiserburg Castle, located on a mountain north of the historical city. Built between 1140 and1400, this was the earliest residence of all Germany's kings and emperors, and hosted virtually all important leaders and royalty of the time. While German emperors never had an actual capitol or home base as such, Nuremberg came as close as to this distinction as possible. It is one of few castles bearing the imperial regalia and symbol of the empire on its walls. This is significant because it later was used by the Nazis for propaganda purposes.
Kaiserburg’s rounded towers and slanting roofs make it beautiful. A double chapel is one of its proudest features. But my tour began at a deep well located high inside the castle. How deep? The guide poured water into this well from a pitcher; five seconds later, we heard the distant splash. When she lowered a ring of lit candles seventy meters through the darkness, we saw the bottom. The well was dug through sandstone by captives over a long period. Perhaps the famous prisoner held there was Sir Richard the Lionhearted.
Although Nuremberg was the seat of the Holy Roman Empire, the rulers never lived there. Unless the emperor actually was in town (they spent a lot of time moving around to keep everyone in line, apparently), the castle was stripped of furnishings. Thus, we were seeing it as it actually was most of the time.
No comments:
Post a Comment